About Leather｜Episode 3

Last time, I wrote about my own impressions of British and German leather.

This time, I'll continue from there.

America

In America, demand for leather used in tack, boots, saddles and the like grew along with westward expansion and the development of ranching, and the leather industry developed as well.

Later, with added demand for shoes and military goods, I think a distinctly American culture of practical, durable leather took shape.

And when it comes to American leather, Horween is probably the name that comes to mind.

Shell cordovan and Chromexcel are popular, and I use them from time to time myself.

I think both are very American materials with a casual feel.

They are a perfect match for the biker-style boots and wallets that are popular right now.

They give quite a contrasting impression to French leather.

Rougher and more rugged rather than elegant.

But I think that is exactly the appeal of American leather.

India

India originally had its own techniques for tanning leather,

but partly due to its history as a British colony, a modern leather industry is said to have developed against the backdrop of demand for boots, saddles and other goods for the British army.

India later became one of the world's leading leather producers.

Perhaps because of that, some of the leathers I have worked with had coloring that felt somewhat close to British leather.

One I used often was a small-hide buffalo calf.

It has few blemishes and is beautiful, and I think it is a very easy material to use for small leather goods, shoes, linings and so on.

Japan

Leather has been used in Japan since ancient times, and armor, footwear and other items made of leather were produced even before the Edo period.

In the Meiji era, against the backdrop of modernization and military demand, Western leather-making techniques were introduced, and a modern leather industry developed in Japan as well.

However, since I have worked almost exclusively with imported leather throughout my career, to be honest, I don't know much about Japanese leather.

Japan also has several well-known leather-producing regions, and of course well-known tanneries.

Japan also has traditional materials such as white-tanned leather (shironameshi) and kurosan leather.

I'd love to try using such uniquely Japanese special materials someday.

Writing it all down again like this, I realize what a truly fascinating material leather is.

Even with the same "leather," the feel differs by country and region.

Of course, it also varies completely depending on the tannery and the finish, and it isn't as simple as "it's like this because it comes from this country."

Even so, after looking at all kinds of leather over many years, there are moments when I feel, "this somehow feels like it's from that country."

There are many other leather-producing regions, but the ones I have actually worked with professionally are the ones I introduced here.

If anything else comes up, I'll write about it again.